RIP STRAIGHT EDGES easily with inexpensive straightlining jigs (see Sources, page 77). One thumbscrew on each jig holds the rough-edged board, the other grips an 8-ft. long by 7-in. wide MDF straightedge. After straightlining one edge, remove the board from the jig and rip the other edge parallel. (You can also have straightlining done for you at the lumberyard.)

A BIG PATTERN-CUTTING BIT works best for jointing edges. Its large cutting diameter leaves smooth, chatter-free surfaces.

ROUT THE FIRST EDGE of each joint, using the pattern-cutting bit and an 8-ft.-long MDF straightedge. After laying out the boards for the top, draw a line across each joint, halfway from the end. Aligning these lines with a similar line at the midpoint of the MDF guarantees that the jointed edges will fit together.

JOINTING WITH A ROUTER
Step 1: Flush Trim Cut
THE FIRST CUT is an ordinary flush trim (Photo 3). The trick is that both edges of the joint are routed from a single straightedge set-up. That way, the two edges will mate perfectly, even if the straightedge isn�t perfectly straight.

USE THREE SPACER BLOCKS to position the second board for routing and clamp it in place. Make the spacers 1/32-in. narrower than the cutting diameter of the pattern bit, so the second routing pass will remove only 1/32 in. from the board.

ROUT THE MATING EDGE of each joint, while keeping the router firmly held against the straightedge. Because the cut is made opposite the bearing point, the edge will be ruined if the bit wanders away.

JOINTING WITH A ROUTER
Step 2: Cutting the Mating Edge
WHILE MAKING the second cut, the pattern bit bears against the same straightedge, but it cuts the second board, which has been moved into position on the opposite side (Photo 5). Keep in mind that jointing the top boards reduces the width of the top about 1/16 in. per joint, so lay it out oversized.

ROUT THE 1/2-IN.-DEEP GROOVE for the spline in several passes, using a 1/4-in.-wide slot-cutting bit (above).Tip: To avoid tear-out, make a couple light scoring cuts, about 1/8-in. deep, moving from right to left. Then move left to right, full depth. Stop the cut 2-in. from each end of the board, so it won�t show.

TEST FIT the spline. It should slip into the groove freely, but without being loose. It can be one long piece or several short ones. Rounded ends match the ends of the slot. Dry fit each joint to make sure the spline fits inside without binding.

STACK THE BOARDS as you glue them. Put a bead of glue at the bottom of the groove of the first board and add the spline. Roll a layer of glue onto the edge of the adjacent board, add a bead in its groove and assemble the joint. Don�t put any glue on the splines. The glue causes them to swell and make the joint impossible to fit. Glue the top together in stages, two to four joints at a time.

CLAMP THE CAULS to the work surface with the top sandwiched between (see Fig. C). Then tighten the pipe clamps, starting at the center and working out to the ends. Remove the glue squeeze-out at the joints after it sets up, but before it hardens. After gluing, trim the long edges with the router and straightedge so they�re straight and parallel.

CAULS FOR GLUING THE TOP
THE LOWER CAUL lifts the top off the pipe and centers it at the pressure point of the clamp. The upper caul is extra wide so it�s stiff enough to hold the top flat as the pipe clamps are tightened.

SQUARE THE END of the top, using a piece of MDF with a factory corner as a template. If you have more than 1/4 in. to remove, use a saw first, to get close. Align one edge of the MDF with the long side of the top. Clamp a block against the opposite edge of the top to avoid blowout. Then trim the edge square, making shallow passes with the pattern-cutting router bit.

LEG PROFILE AND DIMENSIONS

TURN THE LEGS from laminated 3-1/2-in. square blanks, using the dimensions from Fig. E, or order the legs through the mail (see Sources, page 77). If you want to turn them yourself, see "Turning Table Legs" on page 42.

MARK REFERENCE LINES for the BeadLOCK jig on the legs and aprons. Offset the centerlines on the leg by the thickness of a credit card. This slightly raises the rail above the top of the leg, allowing you to plane the apron flush after assembly (see Photo 16).

EXPLODED VIEW OF LEG AND APRON JOINERY
LOOSE TENONS, cut from specially made dowel stock, fit scalloped mortises created by the BeadLOCK doweling jig, which adjusts to drill overlapping holes.

DRILL THE LEGS. Use a shop-made 1/2-in.-thick spacer in the BeadLOCK jig to locate the holes properly. A drill press works great for this operation. It�s easier, faster and more accurate than drilling by hand.

DRILL THE APRONS from the end so you can be sure the holes go in straight. If the holes aren�t straight, the tenons will be angled and the joint won�t fit. Center the drill on your body and sight down the apron while drilling.

GLUE THE LONG SIDES FIRST. Avoid a twisted glue-up by clamping the legs flat to the MDF before you tighten the pipe clamps.Use a spacer to keep the apron from sagging under the weight.

PLANE THE APRONS flush with the top of the legs, working from each end to the center. It�s OK to leave the apron slightly crowned at its center, so the top doesn�t appear to sag.

APPLY A TOURNIQUET to square the base after final assembly. Do this before the glue sets. Shorten the longer side by adding tension until both diagonals measure the same.

TWO SHORT BLOCKS reinforce each joint. The upper blocks leave room for top fasteners. The lower blocks extend and serve as stops for the half-round detail.

MAKE ANGLED CUTS on the end of the rails, using a tenoning jig, with the blade height slightly less than the thickness of the mounting block. Then raise the blade and crosscut the mounting blocks at the same angle.

LOCATE THE SHOULDER of the rail�s dovetail by using the mounting block. Then cut the shoulder square, keeping the blade low enough so it doesn�t cut into the dovetail.

GLUE THE RUNNER in place after the first mounting block has been glued and screwed square to the apron. It�ll hold the rail at exactly the right height. The runner extends below the apron, just like the corner blocks.

CAPTURE THE DOVETAILED RAIL between the mounting blocks. After applying glue, set the rail on the runner and snug it against the first block. Then slide the second block tight against the rail and fasten it.

Dovetailed braces strengthen the base, support the top and keep the long aprons from bowing and twisting.

INTERNAL RAIL ASSEMBLY

MAKE HALF-ROUND molding for the aprons. Round the edges of 1/2-in.-thick stock with a 1/4-in. round-over bit. After routing, rip the stock into separate 1-1/4-in.-wide pieces.

GLUE THE HALF-ROUND MOLDINGS to the aprons. Cut them slightly long and spring them between the legs, pressed against the corner blocks and runners that hang below the apron. They�ll stay in place while you reach for the clamps.

ROUT SLOTS for the tabletop fasteners, using a 1/8-in. slot cutter (see Sources). Make a wider surface to support the router by clamping a second board to the apron.

ATTACH THE BASE. Allow for seasonal movement of the top by using screws at the center of each short apron and support brace and S-shaped metal fasteners everywhere else (see Sources). To position the base for fastening, align centerlines drawn on each of its sides with corresponding lines drawn on the top. Then clamp the base in place.

CUTTING DIAGRAM FOR MDF
One sheet yields both straightedges needed for jointing and squaring the top, as well as spacers and a work surface for jointing.